When this family-run trattoria opened in 1993, it was roughly an eighth of its current size. But it’s still run in a very hands-on way by the Cea family, and pastas, breads, and desserts are still house-made. While prices have risen and some old favorites are no longer on the menu, regulars return for signature dishes such as farfalle con polpette (fresh bowtie pasta with Mama Carla’s meatballs), crabmeat-filled ravioletti in creamy lobster sauce, and vittello piccata, sautéed with lemon, white wine, and capers.