What may be the most creative menu in South Florida will elude you clubbing in South Beach, lounging in Coral Gables or strolling through downtown Fort Lauderdale. Out near the edge of Sunrise Boulevard, somewhere between the aging Gateway cinema and the gleaming new Hustler sex shop, is a restaurant so innovative that we should really just reprint the menu and let you drool. ''I get crazy ideas and I just try and go with them,'' said Chris Wilber, owner and chef at Canyon. It takes a level of chutzpah to dust ostrich medallions with Indian spices, dress them in a sauce of Scotch bonnet peppers and blueberry cream and serve them over sweet corn. The result is a spectacular appetizer, one of Canyon's most popular. When the cozy, 14-table dining room opened in 1994, upscale Southwestern cuisine was hot and Wilber jumped aboard. He established Canyon as a regional favorite, though he felt more comfortable pushing the limits.